DIY Solid Walnut Waterfall Desk for Two

We are finally tackling our home office!  I'm so excited to add more style and function to this workspace.  We want to cram a lot into this room (our second bedroom, technically): a desk for two, storage, a reading nook, and a treadmill - we miss our treadmill so much!  Floor space for Szuka is obviously a must-have.  But to make room for all of this, I had to say goodbye to my beloved, DIY sewing machine treadle desk (Hubby made the top for me way back in 2007).  Back when Hubby built the solid wood top for my desk, I was a graduate student and teaching assistant and I liked being able to spread out my marking and research.  These days my work is more contained, so I decided that I could get by with a smaller desk - which meant that we could carve out a space for Hubby to use his laptop when he needs to.  A space that is not the kitchen counter.  (We sold his DIY welded wood top desk when we moved from the townhouse).

We spent over a year sketching out and pondering DIY desk designs - I devoted a whole Pinterest board to workspace inspiration and desk ideas!  We were coming up with more and more complicated designs until one day we decided that we just wanted something simple: no drawers, no fancy welded legs, nothing motion activated - just a modern surface that would help hide cords.  A mid-century modern look was on my wishlist, too.

The desk design we loved most?  A simple solid walnut, DIY waterfall desk:
 

In order to get a desk to fit our wall perfectly (and not impede access to the room by jutting out into the doorway), we decided to make one so we could customize the height, length, and depth.  You'll see I left a little room to the left - that's just where I keep a basket to store papers we intend burn (in lieu of shredding sensitive documents).  I like keeping that basket handy, but more importantly, I didn't want the desk pushed right up against the drapes.  I'm using a wide-angle camera lens here, which distorts the proportions a bit and makes the desk to room ratio look larger than in reality.   



Let's chat about that DIY desk!

Full disclosure:  Hubby and I fully intended to build this desk ourselves (with the help of Craft-Art) at my father-in-law's woodworking studio, but once Hubby's Dad saw our plans - and the gorgeous slab of walnut we brought with us - he cleared his schedule and pretty much built this for us!  Isn't he the best?  Hubby helped him of course, but I mostly sat around the shop and played with the dogs all day, only stepping in for sanding (on the stroke sander!), some routing (which was fun!), and then hand sanding and finishing once we got the desk home.  I'm the finisher.

Want to make your own DIY waterfall desk?  Here's what you'll need, plus the step-by-step tutorial - in case a bottle of Scotch won't entice any woodworkers you know to make it for you.

Supplies:

• Solid wood plank (we ordered Black Walnut 1.5" plank from Craft-Art)
• Table saw
• Epoxy
• Wood glue
• Plate joiner (also known as a biscuit cutter)
• Wood biscuits (as large as practical for strength)
• Trim router
• Belt sander (we used a stroke sander)
• Large selection of bar clamps
• Four framing squares
• Watco Danish Oil
• Bottle of Scotch

Although Hubby and his Dad did a beautiful job building our solid maple kitchen counters from scratch, for this desk I wanted the tutorial to be a little simpler - and more doable - for blog readers, so I reached out to Craft-Art, a company that creates beautiful solid wood surfaces from different wood species.  Craft-Art sent me three pieces of solid black walnut (one 24"x72" length and two 24"x31" lengths, grains the long way on all three), in their "DIY" option, which required a little bit of sanding and finish - perfect for our use.  It arrived carefully wrapped in a really substantial shipping crate, so we skipped a lot of steps and started with this:

The first step was to fill the knots with epoxy.  Hubby's Dad explained that this adds strength to the knot and fills the holes.  Because the epoxy will sink a little into a hole before it sets, fill them in so the top is a bit higher than the wood surface.  Larger holes might require multiple applications.  You can also use wood filler, but epoxy dries in five minutes.  Once the epoxy dried, we just sanded it smooth and now there's no hole, although the beauty of the knot hasn't been obscured.

Next, Hubby and his Dad cut the mitred edges on the table saw, at 45 degrees.  It was tricky to keep the longest length of walnut level, so as to not distort the mitered edge, but they did an amazing job - it turned out perfectly.

Here's what the finished cut for the mitred corner looked like:

To add strength to the joint Hubby and his Dad used wood biscuits in the joint.

Here is the bottom of the biscuit cutter when cutting the grooves.  Hubby and his Dad worked carefully to ensure that the holes matched up with the corresponding piece in the finished mitered corner.

After that it was time to put the pieces on the stroke sander and make them nice and smooth.  Hubby's Dad tackled this because it was very important that the edges were not rounded because we needed a nice straight, sharp corner for the assembly so the joint would be tight.

Before gluing, Hubby and his Dad spent a long time carefully dry fitting everything together to make sure it all fit and that they had all the proper clamps in place.  It took awhile to figure out what clamp would go where and how to keep such a huge piece clamped tightly.  Once the wood glue is applied you pretty much have one shot because the biscuits start swelling and will not want to be removed.

The framing squares were clamped in place and used as reference to make sure the legs were square to the top, which was placed upside down in the photo below.  We put painters tape all around the glue joints to keep most of the glue that squishes out from going on the wood.  Once we were ready it was simply a case of gluing the biscuits, putting it together and clamping it.

Even though Hubby and his Dad worked quickly, they still needed to persuade the joints together.

Whew!  Everything was clamped together with a million clamps and then we went inside to have dinner.  Later in the evening, once the glue was dried, Hubby routed the edges of the desk.

I even did a little bit of the routing!  I'd never used a router before - I'm always stuck with hand sanding edges instead.  I love a sharp, squared off edge but rounding it the tiniest bit not only strengthens the edge and prevent chipping, but it also makes it less sharp.  The edges now are comfortable and smooth - great for when I'm tap-tap-tapping away on my computer...like right now!

The final step of construction was to add the support piece at the back, which may be optional but we all decided that a little bit of extra hold is never a bad idea - plus this piece helps hide cords!  We picked up a solid black walnut plank at the lumber yard and planed and sanded it before cutting it to length.  It too was installed using biscuits and wood glue, and held with clamps. 

  
In the photo below you can see the bracing piece we added for support more clearly.  It's inset, so we plan to affix our surge arrest power bar there and contain all of the cords between this channel we've created and the wall - completely unseen, but easily accessible.



Here's a look a the completed desk, before it was finished with Danish Oil:

Now came my part: a morning of hand sanding (moving from a 100 grit to a finer 220 grit) and then giving the walnut a coat of oil.

I've used different Danish/teak oils before, but this time I tried the Watco brand Danish Oil - in natural (although I'm curious about the different color finishes).  It's an oil and varnish in one, so it was a quick process with no laborious burnishing or hand-rubbing required - although it gives the look of a hand-rubbed surface.  The application was so simple: apply generously (watch for any areas that soak it up and apply more there right away), wait half an hour, apply another coat, wait fifteen minutes and wipe off.  That's all!  It penetrated into the walnut wood and created a rich finish from within.  I will keep you posted on how durable it is, but so far the wood has been protected and looks great (it's been a few weeks).  I love the velvety feel - it's SO smooth.

A quick note:  I do not believe that this is food safe so while it's great for a desk, I would not recommend this for counters.  For counters, please refer to Craft-Art's suggestions or look for a wood oil that specifies it is food safe.         

There are few things in life more satisfying than oiling walnut...

Look at the beautiful walnut grain!  The finish brought out the lustrous beauty of natural walnut and made me so loopy with heart eyes that I use words like "lustrous".

You can see my epoxy filled knots, too:

 

After the Danish Oil had cured, we added some felt feet underneath to protect our floors and that was it!  Done!  All told, this took about a day and a half to build, sand, and finish. 

We love our new walnut waterfall desk!  Now we're on the hunt for a pair of mid-century modern inspired desk chairs and a pair of lamps - I am just using Hubby's former desk chair and a Lotte lamp stolen back from my Mom for the time being.  When I share more details of the office makeover, I'll show you how our computers fit too! 

From the doorway, the look is clean and simple  - thanks to the waterfall style.  I prefer this to legs for the location of our desk because everything is hidden and when you walk past, the room doesn't feel "office-y," which is nice because you can pretty much see in here from the front door (small house problems). 

In these photos you're getting a peek at our new aqua tweed curtains (I talked about the fabric choice soooo long ago) and the art placement... More updates soon!

A HUGE thanks to Craft-Art for providing the gorgeous black walnut for this project.  The quality of construction was met with approval by my father-in-law, who has really high standards!  The walnut was packed more carefully than any item I've ever been shipped (the pallet was so insanely study, to call it a mere "pallet" doesn't do it justice).  I highly recommend them! 

How to Refinish Bathroom Cabinets Easily: Review of Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations

Although refinishing the bathroom tile proved tricky, modernizing the oak cabinetry was a cinch.  Again I turned to the folks at Rustoleum, eager to try their Cabinet Transformations System.  The colour choices were a smidge limiting (I chose Castle, unglazed) but I was eager for an all-in-one, guaranteed-to-last product.

The kit was straightforward and easy to use (with no sanding or priming!).  After removing the doors fronts I cleaned the cabinet doors and bases thoroughly with the included Deglosser.  This took a few hours because the Deglosser also needs to be wiped clean with a damp cloth and I tried to make sure I did a thorough job.

After the cabinets dried (1 hour), I applied three coats of the included paint (called a "Bond Coat") with a 2" angled brush.  I applied the coats really thinly, starting with the backs of the cabinet doors, making sure I wasn't dripping on to the other side.  Each coat took 2-3 hours to dry so this project took a few days to complete, even though actually applying the Bond Coat was straight forward.

For the cabinet frames, I found that using a small artist's brush (really love that thing for home DIYs) helped me skip the taping step and just get straight to painting.  I just wiped any mistakes off with a damp cloth right away, but after practicing on these cabinets I now have quite the steady hand!

The instructions say two coats should do it but after two there were a couple of spots that needed a touch up.  I had plenty of paint left so I just went ahead with a third coat.  Because my doors are so ornate, it took some extra patience wiggling the paint in there but it was worth the time.  I think a door with a smoother profile might not need the third coat.

After that, I skipped the optional Decorative Glaze (which is created to give the cabinets an antiqued look) and applied the included Protective Top Coat, formulated to work with the Bond Coat to provide maximum scratch and stain resistance.  After it dried, while the doors were still on the floor waiting to be installed, my Mom noticed a few spots less shiny than others so, again, with tons pf product to spare, I applied a second coat but then there were new areas that were less shiny.  We re-installed the doors anyway and once they were in place I couldn't see any difference in sheen.  Sweet relief.

Definitely an improvement! 

Coverage on Solid Wood vs. Melamine

This system covered wood beautifully, but was a touch less cooperative with the melamine cabinet frames.  For lack of a better word, it was "slippery" on melamine, sometimes refusing to adhere neatly so the first coat was really sheer and had poor coverage.  Happily, it adhered to itself well and by the third coat it looked perfect.  To double check, I painted the cabinet doors that are behind our firewood cubby (you can load the wood from the storage room behind the fireplace to avoid tracking gunk through the house).  They are melamine and the white really popped after the fireplace was painted dark grey.  I applied some leftover Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations Bond Coat and although, again, the first coat was more sheer than when I applied it to wood, it adhered perfectly.  And the doors only needed two coats, because they are so smooth and plain.  Photos soon!

I partnered with Rustoleum to update the bathroom cabinets but was not prompted or asked to provide a positive review of the Rustoleum Cabinet Transformation System.  If you try this system, there's even a video DVD included (see a video tutorial online here) and extensive instructions with a helpful FAQ section.  I would 100% purchase this product myself because of the ease of application and the uniqueness of this paint product  - this is more like a mix between a stain and a paint, and it really seems to sink in to the grain to create a super smooth, professional-looking finish.  

Read more »

How to Refinish Solid Wood Furniture Legs + Arms

We ordered the velvet (yay!) and we'll be dropping off the chair at Kessels Upholstery soon.  But first our little garbage chair needed some love.  We stripped and re-stained its light wood legs and sanded and oiled its solid wood arms.  But somewhere along the way I goofed . . .

First up, the legs.  They were weird light wood, did you spot that?  They didn't go with our other furniture and they didn't go with the chair's arms.  We unscrewed them and gave them a good sand (using 120 and then 220 grit sandpaper) and applied stain.  For the stain, we used the same brand that worked wonders for Hubby's DIY welded desk (Saman), this time in "dark walnut".  We picked the stain because on the sample board it looked like the same ashy brown hue as the arms. 

Nope.

Before we delve into that, here are the application details:

1. Hubs and I sanded the legs, removing the previous coating entirely until we had bare wood.
2. Using a foam brush, I applied the stain along the entire length of the leg (I started doing only the bottom or top half and then they didn't match, so I worked the whole length, and applied stain all the way around).
3. Once the whole leg was covered in stain, I wiped off excess with a clean, lint-free rag.
4. I let it dry overnight and then applied a second coat. 
5. I let it dry overnight again, then Hubs applied Danish Oil as a finish coat (I'll explain the oil below).

Actually refinishing the wood legs was easy.  They look amazing and the darker stain hides some of the dints and scuffs we couldn't sand out.  The dark stain covered all problems areas (this is why I like to wear dark pants).  The problem is, now the legs are darker than the arms!

The arms were trickier because they were stained and marked.

We gave them a really good sand - first with a 120 grit and then following up with a 220 grit.  I used a sanding block to help keep the pressure even.  It took some love (we each took an arm and sanded for an hour or so), but it was worth it!  These solid wood arms looked gorgeous again.  But really, really light.  Something made abundantly clear once the legs had been stained really, really dark.

After sanding, we wiped them clean with a damp rag and let them dry.  Then I applied some Danish Oil, which is a lot thicker than Teak Oil, as per the instructions:

1. I applied a really thin coat with a lint-free cloth.
2. After 5 minutes, I wiped off the excess.
3. I let them sit overnight, then I rubbed the arms with a cloth to "burnish" them.
4. I repeated this process, adding a second and third coat.

Here's the other side, all oiled and lovely:

The arms turned out lovely.  But still a bit lighter than anticipated and a much warmer hue than planned.  I thought even after oiling they would stay ashy, but the oil has a yellowness to it.  Now the dark/light clash has switched!

Oh well.  I love the arms (the wood grain is gorgeous) and if, when it's all upholstered, I don't love the legs I can remove them and re-finish again, or just replace them.  What I learned from this is to buy the stain after the wood I'm refinishing is stripped and sealed, for a better match.  I also learned I love Danish Oil!  We also applied some to our little random stool/table and it made the wood that much richer.  Supposedly it builds a durable, water-resistant finish (and has a satin sheen when it's dry, so nothing too glossy). 

P.S. Here are the two products were used: Saman water-based stain in Dark Walnut (also available at Canadian Tire) and Tried and True Danish Oil (also available from Lee Valley). 

Read more »