Cabinet Refinishing 101: Latex Paint vs. Stain vs. Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations vs. Varnish vs. Chalk Paint vs. Wood Conditioner

Want to refinish your kitchen or bathroom cabinets, but can't decide between paint, stain or a specialty cabinet coating systems, like Rust-Oleum Cabinet Transformations?  Maybe you're thinking just some kind of wood conditioner or varnish would be enough to revive your cabinetry?

I have a few cabinet makeovers under my belt and I've tried different methods and supplies each time.  Some DIY newbies have asked for me to weigh in on the best way to refinish cabinetry, so I thought I'd share my experiences in one comprehensive post, along with some links to other great cabinet makeovers, plus a few pros and cons for the most popular methods.  I've also got a rough sketch for the steps involved, but my steps are by no means meant to be exhaustive - I just want to give you an idea of the work involved.  Also, these thoughts are just based on my experience, so if you've had a different experience (good or bad), I'd love for you to chime in, in the comments section! 
 
REFINISHING CABINETRY WITH OIL / LATEX PAINT:

I've painted two sets of cabinets with latex paint: the half bathroom cabinet in the townhouse and the kitchen cabinetry in the lakehouse.  In the bathroom I used primer & eggshell paint leftover from painting the bathroom wall.  The bathroom was minimally used so chipping/wear was never an issue but the eggshell finish was difficult to clean.  Dust stuck to it and hung on for dear life.

It's impossible to tell, but I changed up the cabinet colour from dingy cream to pale grey:

The kitchen makeover was, obviously, much more dramatic, and my second foray into cabinet painting:

For the lakehouse kitchen I used Zinsser primer and CIL Premier Latex paint in a semi-gloss finish.  Sherry and John, fellow DIY enthusiasts from Young House Love, used a satin finish for their kitchen makeover (Benjamin Moore Advance), which seemed to work well for them.  Personally, I love the semi-gloss finish because it's so easy to wipe down and keep clean.  It doesn't look too shiny, in my opinion. 

STEPS:

• Remove cabinet fronts & remove all hardware
• Putty any holes/damage with wood filler
• Sand putty
• Clean the surface with a de-greaser (I used dish soap and a chore boy scrub pad)
• Sand the surface so the glossiness of the previous finish is removed (although the primer I used said sanding is unnecessary, I did a light sand anyway)
• Vacuum dust or remove with tack cloth
• Wipe down surface with damp cloth, let dry
• Prime, using a brush or spray gun
• Sand smooth any imperfections/raise brush marks (if required)
• Apply paint, using a brush or spray gun (I also used a roller for large, breakfast bar area)

Here's a detailed post about how we painted the cabinet fronts with a paint spray and here's how I painted the boxes.  This link lists all of the supplies we used.

REVIEW OF PAINTING CABINETS WITH LATEX PAINT:  Although I sanded before priming and used a good quality primer, there have been a few spots of paint-loss after an impact or banging furniture against it.  Luckily, touch up has been a breeze and after those first few days of settling in, no other paint loss has occurred.  Paint can take a month to fully cure, so we should have been more careful.  A tutorial on Curbly advocates a rigorous sand/prime/prime/prime/sand/paint system for the extra cautious, which might also help ensure maximum adhesion.  It sure seems like a lot of work, though! 

PROS: Unlimited colour options, various finishes, easily acquired supplies, can dramatically change the look
CONS: Lots of prep (sand, prime, paint for good adhesion), needs time to cure, can show brush strokes
PURCHASE: I bought my supplies at Canadian Tire but you can find Zinsser primer on Amazon.  It's a good base for any furniture/paint project.

REFINISHING CABINETRY WITH CHALK PAINT:

Chalk paint has won over people because you can often skip sanding!  I actually went to an Annie Sloan stockist when I was planning the kitchen makeover because I was lured by the supposed ease of use.  Unfortunately, the colours - even when custom-mixed - were a little antiquey for what I wanted.  If you're curious, there's a whole website devoted to how to use chalk paint.  If you Google or search Pinterest, you'll find tons of cute kitchen makeovers that have used Chalk Paint as well.  Simply Rooms has a good tutorial (obviously I love the color!)

Photo Source: Bella Tucker

STEPS:

• Remove cabinet fronts & remove all hardware
• Prepare surface by cleaning with a de-greaser and let dry
• Make sure the surface is free of lint or dust
• Paint away!  Seriously, no sanding or priming unless an area is uneven or won't take the paint (I've heard some people - even pros - have experienced bleed through and needed to prime)
• Seal the piece using clear wax or furniture paste

PROS: Decent colour selection, limited prep required, distressing is an easy option for a cottage-inspired look, has a chalky finish (which you may like)
CONS: I've heard getting the finish right can be tricky - especially the Annie Sloan wax, it can be more expensive than latex paints, limited availability in some cities, has a chalky finish (which you may not like)
PURCHASE: Most cities have stockists various brands of chalk paint but if you can't track it down in person, you can easily find the right tools and many different brands of chalk paint on Amazon.

REFINISHING CABINETRY WITH  A CABINET REFINISHING SYSTEM:

For the main bathroom and half bathroom in the lakehouse I used Rust-Oleum's Cabinet Transformations system (in the colour Castle).  The steps were a little different than just painting, but with a similar result.  Happily, there was NO sanding (yay!!) because a de-glosser was used instead. 

STEPS:

• Remove cabinet fronts & all hardware
• Clean the cabinets with the included de-glosser, then remove de-glosser with a damp rag and water
• Apply thin coats of the paint (called a "Bond Coat")
• Wait 2-3 hours in between coats, use 2-3 coats for best coverage
• Apply the Decorative Glaze coat (optional - I skipped this)
• Apply Protective Top coat
• Let dry and follow manufacturer's instructions regarding when the cabinets can be used/cleaned

REVIEW OF RUST-OLEUM CABINET TRANSFORMATIONS:  I loved the cabinet finishing system.  Almost everything was included which made things so much easier.  The de-glosser took some time to apply and wash off but it was so much less messy than sanding and priming - really a benefit if you're working inside or don't have a garage.  The paint went on like a dream - so smooth, with such even, beautiful coverage.  Honestly, it was super fabulous stuff.  The clear coat was the only tricky part because touching it up is nearly impossible so it's important to get an even coat the first time - check the finished piece from all angles to spot any matte areas.  Also, the clear coat dries quickly so you need to work quickly.  Once we put cabinet bumpers on, we have had NO areas of paint loss.  No chips, scuffs - and it cleans so easily.  I've even had to scrub the cabinets to get some gunk off and the finish held strong.  I've also tested it on melamine and it works on it too (although it takes longer to get an even finish on melamine- an extra coat, so no big deal really).

I wrote a post about how the entire budget-friendly bathroom makeover, plus the Rust-Oleum cabinetry transformations, held up with wear and you can read it by clicking here.

PROS: Easy application, durable, no sanding, great for beginners because it's a kit with educational materials and everything is laid our clearly
CONS: Clear coat is tricky to apply, de-glosser is time consuming, involves chemicals, limited colour selection, not the cheapest option
PURCHASE: Most improvement stores carry it now, but you can also find the cabinet refinishing system on Amazon.

REFINISHING CABINETRY WITH STAIN:

Although I've stained lots of furniture and other wood projects (like our kitchen counters!), I have yet to stain kitchen or bathroom cabinetry.  One pain is that with water-based stains you typically need to get down to the bare wood, especially true if you want to stain cabinets a lighter colour.  A chemical stripper is great for this - especially on veneered fronts, which you don't want to accidentally sand off.  Finishing the job with sandpaper and a sanding block is time consuming but results in a nice finish.  With solid wood cabinets (or a thick veneer), using a sander is a faster option.

Researching this post I chatted with folks at a local paint and stain shop who delivered the sad news: there's no stain on the market right now that eliminates the need for sanding altogether when refinishing wood.  BUT, I have heard that you can use gel stain right on top of existing finish with minimal sanding.  I have yet to try it, but it sounds like a great option for re-staining cabinetry with minimal fussing.  Basically, you just want the sheen/gloss coat removed.  Jen, from the Creative Cubby has a great tutorial with super clear, step-by-step photos.  It seems infinitely easier to stain cabinets darker than it is to lighten them.  Erin, from Magenta & Lime did a fabulous job staining her kitchen cabinets espresso:

Photo Source: Magenta and Lime

 STEPS:

• Remove cabinet fronts & remove all hardware
• Sand or use a chemical stripper to remove the previous finish - the amount of labor depends on the type of stain used
• Clean the surface of all gunk, dust and goo (TSP is good)
• Apply a pre-stain wood conditioner if required
• Allow surface to dry
• Apply stain, using a foam brush, rag or a sock (you can use a spray gun, too)
• Follow manufacturer's suggestions for dry times
• Apply a sealant/protective top coat

PROS: Can dramatically change the look of cabinetry, some people think stained cabinets look more expensive than painted (so potentially good for resale value), allows wood grain to peek through
CONS: Stain can be blotchy, clean up is messy
PURCHASE: Talk to the pros at your local paint/stain store to make sure you get the right product and supplies.

REFINISHING CABINETRY WITH BY RE-VARNISHING:

When Hubby fell in love with the natural wood veneer of our townhouse kitchen cabinets, I did what any good Wifey would do - set aside my dreams for a painted kitchen and put on my rubber gloves.  I stripped the varnish and sanded the fronts and boxes smooth before applying a new satin clear coat.  Hubby so rarely voices a preferences in decor that it only seemed fair to let him have wood cabinets!  Stripping the cabinets and applying the new varnish took a few days but it really refreshed the cabinetry without hiding the wood he loved so much.

STEPS:

• Remove cabinet fronts and all cabinet hardware
• Using a chemical stripper, remove the previous finish (apply, wait, scrape off)
• Wipe down the surface to remove the gunk
• Using 80 and then 220 grit sandpaper and sanding block, sand the surface smooth
• (With solid wood, you can use a belt or orbital sander, not recommended for veneer - don't want to sand through!) 
• Clean the surface with TSP and let dry
• Using a brush, apply varnish (I used water-based in semi-gloss) in a thin coat, allow dry overnight
• Lightly sand the surface smooth with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper - just a light sand
• Re-apply the clear coat, typically 2-3 coats is sufficient

REVIEW OF REFINISHING CABINETRY BY RE-VARNISHING:  See this post for the full-length tutorial.  I absolutely hated this process because of my own ridiculousness.  I insisted on wearing flip flops and almost seared my toes off when the chemical stripper dripped down to my exposed feet - repeatedly, because I refused to put on shoes.  My memory of this event is coloured and I only remember it as painful.  The cabinets definitely looked 98% better but one slightly water damaged area kept it from looking 100% better.  It was a lot of work and I would have liked a more dramatic look, but both real estate agents and prospective buyers agreed they loved the kitchen with the natural wood finish.  I spent four years thinking of different painted looks I could give the cabinetry, but never truly regretted the decision.

PROS: Doesn't need to be sanded as well as for staining, foolproof (no streaking, chipping, etc), the finish could have an impact (like going from matte to high-gloss) but can also be very subtle
CONS: Messy, doesn't change the look as much as stain or paint, involves chemical and/or laborious sanding, won't disguise flaws like a dark stain or paint can
PURCHASE: Any paint store will carry a varnish and most will have a display so you can see a sample of the finish.

REFINISHING CABINETRY WITH  WOOD CONDITIONER / POLISH:

Alternatively, you can try something like Restor-A-Finish which just wipes on and wipes off.  It won't make a dramatic change, but it can remove blemishes and, quite obviously, restore the finish.  There are a number of different one-step products and homemade solutions out there that will similarly freshen wood cabinetry that might be a little beat-up.  It's a simple way to keep the same look, but update the feel of cabinetry by erasing (many) signs or age and wear.  Centsational Girl has a great post about restoring wood furniture, but the same tips can be applied to wood cabinets as well.

PROS: Perfect for renters who want a fresher looking kitchen without changing the look, simple, foolproof
CONS: Won't change the look much, involves chemicals, limitations to what it can fix
PURCHASE: Resor-A-Finish is a brand I trust and it comes in different finishes to match your wood.  Try to find a sample in stores but if you can't track it down you can find it on Amazon.  

MISC. TIPS FOR REFINISHING CABINETRY:

1. Remove the door and hardware - it will make life so much easier.
2. Use quality painter's tape to tape off areas you don't want to paint/stain and put down drop cloths.
3. Set up a dust-free area to work in and create a little assembly line.
4. Use painter's pyramids/triangles to lift up doors (I use empty yoghurt containers and random surplus building materials but just getting the pyramids is neater and easier, I'm sure).

5. Use a spray gun for door fronts for a smooth and factory-like finish, but don't worry if all you have is an angled brush because it does a lovely job too.

6. Use a small artist's brush to apply paint/stain to the narrow or hard to reach areas.

7. Don't try to speed up dry time with a fan in the early stages - you might blow dust around and it will stick nicely to the freshly painted/stained/varnished surface
8. Keep a damp cloth or rag on hand for the inevitable goofs and spills

Whew, that's a lot!

Hopefully this review of stain vs. paint vs. chalk paint vs. varnish vs. Rust-Oleum cabinet transformations vs. wood conditioner was a helpful starting point for anyone considering a cabinet makeover.  No matter what method you choose, take the time to do the prep work for whatever method you chose and you'll thank yourself later.  Most importantly, don't be intimidated.  There's nothing that can't be fixed!  If you run into a snag, you can always sand and start fresh.

In my experience, no matter what method I've tried, I've always been so happy with the result in the end, because it's better than what I had before!

Kitchen Progress: No Stain, No Gain

Our solid maple kitchen counters have been built!!  Hubby and his Dad did a beautiful job making them, so it was a little nerve wracking for me to not only choose the finish, but also apply the actual stain.  Hubby will be sharing the construction how-to on the blog soon, but in the meantime I wanted to show you how I stained them - and share my stain snafu.

Originally my plan included turquoise cabinets and grey counters.  I loved our low-maintenance grey laminate counters in the townhouse because they reminded me of concrete.  They cost $750, which is more than I wanted to spend on our kitchen spruce so I nixed that option.



Covering worn out laminate counters in actual concrete has became a DIY trend (see Kara Paslay Designs, Little Green Notebook, and A Beautiful Mess for three great tutorials), and I've loved that look as well.  I nixed this option too, though, because the existing mint green laminate counters were bubbling and peeling, and had a weird rounded edge that bothered me.

Still, I wanted some kind of grey counter for the lakehouse kitchen because it would be a pretty, cool neutral to pair with turquoise, and I thought that a shot of grey in the kitchen would connect with our darker grey fireplace.  Because Hubby's Dad is a woodworker and Hubby's picked up some skills, I figured Hubby could make some wood counters for cheap and we'd stain them grey.  Somewhere along the way our wires got crossed with Hubby's Dad, who hooked us up with some wood from one of his suppliers.  I had planned on buying cheap, builder's grade wood at Home Depot and budgeted about $200-300 for this project but my father-in-law ended up picking out some quality maple for us, to the tune of $611.  I don't think he realized our kitchen spit and polish is just temporary, while we save for and plot a full reno. 

The finished maple counters have beautiful grain and are substantial: they are 1 3/4" thick and the largest piece weighs 130 lbs!!  At first I fretted that these beautiful maple counters are too fancy for our kitchen spruce.  They are, but ultimately I'm thrilled with them.  And they were still cheaper than laminate.  Plus, I figure that we can always re-purpose the counters for the fish room (see the house tour) or make a table(s) top from the wood.  Here are the unstained pieces, laid out how they will be in the kitchen: stove in the gap and sink in the skinny piece.  The widest piece hangs into the dining room, with stools pulled up to it.



It took me days to finally track down a not-brown grey stain and the folks at the store tested it on a sample of maple that was more yellowed than our wood, and it looked perfect.  On our wood, however, the blue-ish grey turned purple thanks to the pinkish hue of the maple peeking through.  I think lighting had a lot to do with it too.  Unfortunately, I hated the stain with the turquoise cabinets - it looked so 80s!  I've learned my lesson: it's important to test stain not just on the type of wood I'm using, but on an actual piece of my wood for the most accurate indication of colour.

I deliberated some more and ultimately decided I was wrong about the grey because the cabinets are very bold and the painted fireplace is also dramatic, so I figured we need something more mellow, instead.  I opted to use the same white stain we used for Hubby's welded desk - Saman brand in "whitewash".  As a bonus, it dries quickly (1/2- 1 hour), which made staining multiple pieces with multiple coats less of a chore.  I guessed it would end up a creamy white, and I thought that would relate well to the off-white and beige flooring, which we're not changing.   You know I'm really into bleached oak hardwood floors, so I also thought that whitewashed maple might have a similar, airy, Scandinavian cottage vibe.

All this to say: yes, I totally chickened out and went with white stain.  But look how pretty it is:

Application was a breeze: after giving the counters a hand sanding with 150 grit sandpaper, we moved them over to Hubby's Dad's spray booth.  We brushed off any dust and I used a sprayer to apply the stain.  I contacted Saman and they recommended adding 5% water if the stain is applied this way, but I found it to be watery enough (it is, after all, a water-based stain).  I sprayed each section, starting with the edges, and then - spraying along the grain - worked my way from the section closest to me to the one furthest away, overlapping with each pass.  It's a good idea to apply stain or paint so that any over-spray is on an unpainted/unstained area.  I sprayed each strip of stain in one continuous motion, and started spraying just before the wood and stopped spraying right after.

I let the stain sit a few minutes and then wiped it off with dry cheesecloth (any lint-free rag or foam brush works).  I went through a lot of cloth, and it was handy to have fresh cloth ready because the stain dried quickly.

I've learned with stain to really wipe it off.  Like spray painting, it's better to work in multiple thin layers than one goopy one, and even though it's painful to watch the wood return almost back to its original state with the first coat, it's crucial for a finish that sinks in and doesn't look painted on.  Any time I haven't been diligent about really removing the excess stain, I've ended up with streaks.  Three coats later and the counters were looking very Scandinavian.  I contemplated a fourth coat, but wood-loving Hubby and his Dad winced at the proposition, and hurriedly packed away the equipment.  They're right: a fourth coat might have covered too much grain and just looked painted.  If we've got lovely wood, we should show it off.  A bit.

Applying stain with a sprayer is a great way to practice using the equipment because it isn't as critical to get an even coat with stain as it is with paint.  It's the first time I've used one since painting Charlie the car (Hubby used ours to paint the kitchen cabinets).  I was on the fence about using a sprayer because I was nervous about messing it up, but this method felt foolproof and was so much faster!!  It took an hour to apply one coat of stain to all of the four counter pieces, but this included moving each piece in and out of the spray booth, applying the stain, wiping off, and inspecting for streaks.  By the time we were done the last piece, the first piece was ready for another coat.  I bought two 946 ml jugs ($27 each) and used all of one, plus a tiny bit of the other - I was so close to only needing one. 

We've left the counters with Hubby's Dad, who is spraying on a few coats of top coat.  He's using the brand pictured below, which will also be applied with a sprayer (with a light sanding between coats).  He suggested a semi-gloss finish because scratches and marks won't show up as well as they would with a high gloss finish.  This should be durable enough to be used for a kitchen counter, which will see spills and water.

How spoiled do I feel?  Not only did fabulous, solid wood counters (seemingly) materialize by magic, all I needed to do was swan in and lay down some stain . . . I don't even have to apply the top coat!!  Installation is slated to happen Friday, and I'm so excited!  Open drawering is overrated.  

Read more »

How to Refinish Solid Wood Furniture Legs + Arms

We ordered the velvet (yay!) and we'll be dropping off the chair at Kessels Upholstery soon.  But first our little garbage chair needed some love.  We stripped and re-stained its light wood legs and sanded and oiled its solid wood arms.  But somewhere along the way I goofed . . .

First up, the legs.  They were weird light wood, did you spot that?  They didn't go with our other furniture and they didn't go with the chair's arms.  We unscrewed them and gave them a good sand (using 120 and then 220 grit sandpaper) and applied stain.  For the stain, we used the same brand that worked wonders for Hubby's DIY welded desk (Saman), this time in "dark walnut".  We picked the stain because on the sample board it looked like the same ashy brown hue as the arms. 

Nope.

Before we delve into that, here are the application details:

1. Hubs and I sanded the legs, removing the previous coating entirely until we had bare wood.
2. Using a foam brush, I applied the stain along the entire length of the leg (I started doing only the bottom or top half and then they didn't match, so I worked the whole length, and applied stain all the way around).
3. Once the whole leg was covered in stain, I wiped off excess with a clean, lint-free rag.
4. I let it dry overnight and then applied a second coat. 
5. I let it dry overnight again, then Hubs applied Danish Oil as a finish coat (I'll explain the oil below).

Actually refinishing the wood legs was easy.  They look amazing and the darker stain hides some of the dints and scuffs we couldn't sand out.  The dark stain covered all problems areas (this is why I like to wear dark pants).  The problem is, now the legs are darker than the arms!

The arms were trickier because they were stained and marked.

We gave them a really good sand - first with a 120 grit and then following up with a 220 grit.  I used a sanding block to help keep the pressure even.  It took some love (we each took an arm and sanded for an hour or so), but it was worth it!  These solid wood arms looked gorgeous again.  But really, really light.  Something made abundantly clear once the legs had been stained really, really dark.

After sanding, we wiped them clean with a damp rag and let them dry.  Then I applied some Danish Oil, which is a lot thicker than Teak Oil, as per the instructions:

1. I applied a really thin coat with a lint-free cloth.
2. After 5 minutes, I wiped off the excess.
3. I let them sit overnight, then I rubbed the arms with a cloth to "burnish" them.
4. I repeated this process, adding a second and third coat.

Here's the other side, all oiled and lovely:

The arms turned out lovely.  But still a bit lighter than anticipated and a much warmer hue than planned.  I thought even after oiling they would stay ashy, but the oil has a yellowness to it.  Now the dark/light clash has switched!

Oh well.  I love the arms (the wood grain is gorgeous) and if, when it's all upholstered, I don't love the legs I can remove them and re-finish again, or just replace them.  What I learned from this is to buy the stain after the wood I'm refinishing is stripped and sealed, for a better match.  I also learned I love Danish Oil!  We also applied some to our little random stool/table and it made the wood that much richer.  Supposedly it builds a durable, water-resistant finish (and has a satin sheen when it's dry, so nothing too glossy). 

P.S. Here are the two products were used: Saman water-based stain in Dark Walnut (also available at Canadian Tire) and Tried and True Danish Oil (also available from Lee Valley). 

Read more »

How to Stain Wood with Water Based Stain - Our DIY Desks' Surface

I'm a tease.  Hubby & I have finally put together the desk we have been planning to build since July.  BUT, I have to let the desk surface cure for a week (which is cruel and unusual punishment) before putting anything on it.  I don't want to introduce you to the desk when it is naked.  I'm not "staging" it, but at least adding the lamps I bought would be nice.  Right now it looks so lonely.

Because the glossy top turned out better than I imagined, I thought I'd post about the surface today and then reveal the desk and the welding tutorial next week.  Picture me hovering near the desk, tightly gripping a lamp, in anticipation.

Without further ado . . . here is the desk surface, in our gloriously ugly basement, a.k.a the pit of despair (more on our basement makeover plans in the next couple of weeks too):

Glossy, no?

How to Cheat:

We had planned on building a surface, like Hubby did for my vintage treadle sewing machine desk, but while we were at Lowe's shopping for lumber, we stumbled upon this display:

Seriously, look at the sweet price:

One of these pre-fab surfaces was the exact size we needed and it saved us hours and hours and hours of work in our freezing garage.  Sold! 

But it looked at little too knotty for my liking.  Hubby is against painted wood (hence the wood-y kitchen we've maintained) so, because it is his desk, I opted for a stain.

How to Stain Wood White:

1. We lightly sanded the top and edges because the board was pretty sharp as-is.

2. We wiped it clean with a dry cloth.

3. Pouring a bit onto foam brush at a time (as per the instructions), we applied Saman water based stain and it was fantastic! 

After the fact, I learned that this brand of water based stain can be mixed for custom colours.  I opted for "whitewash".

Why we loved this stain (and this is my own opinion, Saman execs don't even know I exist, let alone that I'm giving the company mad love):

• Water based = easy clean up
• Low odour, making it perfect for indoor projects
• No overlapping marks
• Really awesome coverage

With just one 8 oz. bottle we applied four coats, making the wood almost opaque but still grain-y and wood-y for the Hubs.

How to Make a Varnished Surface Super Glossy:

We used Varathane brand (click here to see the can's English side - oops) Premium Diamond Wood Finish in clear gloss.  It, too, is water-based and although meant for outdoor items, worked just fine for a desk.  The helpful salesman at Canadian Tire who sold me my tiny first can of varnish is not as obsessed with glossiness as me.  When I bought my second can, this time at Home Hardware, the helpful salesman there suggested I buy a bigger can.  I'll use the rest, he reasoned.  He's smart.

Oh, tiny first can.  How quickly we parted ways.

I applied EIGHT coats to get the desk surface glassy-glossy and I love the result.  In the office, it just glows.

How to Varnish:

1. Lightly sand any grain that has been raised during the staining process.
2. Wipe thoroughly with a dry cloth
3. Ensure surface is free of debris (I missed this step - crap).
4. Apply varnish using a foam or bristle brush (don't go cheap - my brush left fuzzies I noticed too late - double crap)
5. Allow to dry (2-4 hours for this brand).
6. Lightly sand any raised grain, wipe clean (the manufacturer's suggest sanding the whole thing if more than 24 hours have passed).
7. Re-apply varnish and continue until you can see your reflection (I used 8 coats).
8. Patiently wait for the surface to cure for one week.

Despite some mystery debris trapped beneath eight layers of varnish like some weird grime time capsule, I am happy with the results.  I'll show you the whole kit & caboodle soon!  

Read more »