Creating a Happy, Colorful, Handmade Home & life on the shores of lake superior

March 10, 2015

How to Make Over a Vintage Metal Table with Rust-Oleum Pearl Paint

 
Do you remember that little metal table that used to reside in the townhouse guestroom? It was a wedding gift my Mummu received in the 1950s, and she gave it to me.  It was originally black but then, with her permission, I painted it mint green: 


I didn't fully love the colour - it was bordering on sage green - but it looked nice with the mint and aqua upholstered chair and so I left it as-is.


Once we moved to the lakehouse, and lost a guest bedroom, it migrated to our bedroom and it looked good until I added the teal back tab curtains.


The teal made the mint look super dull and drab - and its buddy, the Mingo chair, was displaced anyway.  The paint had also seen some wear in the move, so a fresh coat of paint was in order.  Because this little table will get the boot soon (our dresser dilemma has been solved!), I opted for a neutral colour so I can move it from room to room with ease.


I decided white would be perfect for such a transient little table but then, on impulse, I decided a pearlized white would be even better - Rustoleum Pearl Mist looked nice on the cap.  I hauled it over to the super awesome spray paint booth my in-laws have (winter spray painting!) and - ta da!


The pearlized paint is really pretty, but it seemed to take forever to achieve this coverage.




It went on really, really sheer and the green continued to peek through, coat after coat.  It still does, a little, but I don't mind that slight green tint.  If I wanted a true pearl white, a white base coat would definitely be necessary because this paint is like a clear finish with some metallic sparkles in it.  I Googled around, curious if the "mist" in the name indicates its sheerness and I'm just a total goof, but it seems other people have had issues with coverage too.  On the plus side, this could add a really pretty shimmer to furniture without masking the colour - or it could help tone down a too-bright paint job.  If you're tempted to try this paint, buy double what you would normally need for your project, or start with a white or cream base.



Even though it took a little extra spray paint huffing, I'm happy with the result.  This might end up a plant stand in the office, a side table if we turn the guesthouse into a proper bedroom...I'm not sure.  What I do know is that there are more bedroom changes happening soon.  But did I mention that I painted this table three months ago?   "Soon".  You keep using that word, but I don't think it means what you think it means. 

Product for this project was provided by the folks at Rustoleum, who have been kindly indulging many of my DIY project fantasies for awhile now.  Any comments, opinions and projects chosen are all my own! 
SHARE:

November 24, 2014

Going for Gold - How to Paint a Vintage Typewriter Table

I'm sharing a furniture makeover today, and it's NOT aqua!  In fact, it's not any of my safe and favored colours - it's gold.  Gold and I have a weird friendship.  I love to wear gold jewellery (my gold charm bracelet is a staple).  I have mooned over many a gold-filled DIY project.  An art exhibit featuring white plaster and gold had me totally mesmerized.  When I came back from my second visit to Hungay, I was totally obsessed.  But I just don't love gold in my house.  I've tried: my framed agates have a delicate edge of gold.  That's okay.  But remember when I had a cute vintage print framed in a pretty, brushed gold frame?  Well, that ended up at my Mom's place, where the frame will look great with her original 1950s antique brass hardware (she doesn't like the print, but I think a photograph from our travels will look great - maybe in black and white).  I was sad to see it go - especially because the frame wasn't cheap - but it was just too much gold for me!!  Even though I appreciate gold, and love seeing it in other homes, in my own home I love the coolness of brushed nickel.  It complements the watery palette that makes me happiest, and just feels refreshing.

With all that said, I wanted to try a little gold spray paint.  I can sense you sighing, "she's so stubborn".

I had thrifted this vintage metal typewriter table for $2.50 and decided it might look cute in the computer shop I've been slowly helping gussy up.  Two chairs in their waiting area + a fancy coffee maker necessitated a side table.  I don't know why, but I decided this would be my chance to try gold spray paint.  Here it is before (I had already popped the wheelie feet off):


I actually liked the patina, but it was bordering on shabby.  And the computer shop owner detests shabby (remember the cute antique chair that was vetoed?).   


I scrubbed the table with Mr. Clean, then rinsed it and let it dry.  I used a fine grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the entire surface and then wiped it down again.  I removed the wheels (they just pop off) and carefully wrapped them in painter's tape.


Then I got to spraying, using Rust-Oleum Universal Metallic in Pure Gold.  This Rust-Oleum spray paint bonds well with metal and has a built-in primer so painting the table was easy.  This was another spray painting job I tackled in my Father-in-law's spray painting booth.  I am so ecstatic about the potential for cold-weather spray painting!!  Paint ALL the things...

I flipped the table over and did the underside first.  I let it dry about half an hour and then gingerly flipped it back to spray paint the top and sides.  The spray in any direction nozzles are so fabulous - how did we spray paint without them?  Also, these new formulas dry fast - I love that.


I have been doing my best to be a patient spray-painter: applying super thin, sheer coats and waiting a few minutes in between.  When we were out at my in-laws', chopping wood and painting, we brought Szuka and added her to my father-in-law's existing three dogs (one of whom won't play nice with anyone, and two that do hang out but can't be let outside together).  I was on puppy-patrol and was kept pretty busy letting them out individually for pee breaks and breaking up fights.  Paint a little, let a dog out for a pee, paint another coat, try to find that dog and lure it back inside, spray on another thin coat, let out another dog.  It worked well for me!  Being distracted is great for spray painting projects because it keeps me from sitting there, with a twitchy spray painting finger, globbing on heavy coat coat after coat.

Once done, I let it cure for a few hours while we had dinner.  Hubby's Dad said the finish looked so perfect, it's like it came from the factory like that!  He said it didn't look spray painted, which is a high compliment from a woodworker who knows his finishes.  Hubby and his Dad actually both like the colour, which was surprising because it's gold, which I thought they'd deem to be too "feminine".  This gold is pretty - it's not glam and glitzy, it's a subtle gold with the tiniest amount of gleam.  I'm really pleased with how it turned out and I reluctantly delivered it to the computer shop last week, but not before I snapped a few photos.



The finished product is not as yellow-gold as the lid, and I suspect that's because it was applied to a green-ish colour to begin with.  Had I primed with white, I suspect the gold would have been truer. 



This winter I'll be recovering the computer store's counter with Rustoleum's counter top refinishing kit (I'm so curious and just have to try it out) and then maybe I'll show you the shop.

For now, you'll have to take my word that it's such a cute piece of furniture for an otherwise modern computer store.   These typewriter tables seem to be a dime a dozen.  If you stumble across one for cheap, you might one to give it a little makeover.  If not gold, then perhaps one of these gorgeous colours? 

Visual Heart, Our Secondhand House, Design Dining Diapers

Thanks to Rustoleum for providing the product for this project.  I've been really lucky to be able to work with a great brand (a longtime favorite), who gives me total freedom concerning what projects I tackle, what products I use, when (or if) I blog about them, and how I write my posts. 
Read more »
SHARE:

May 19, 2014

Kitchen Progress: DIY Pantry Cabinet + Working Around the Weirdness

We've made some more progress on the kitchen: an open pantry has been built, shelves have been primed and painted, brackets have been installed, and shelves have been set on brackets and abandoned.  We just need to join together the shelf pieces and install them, finish installing baseboard and other trim (window trim is done though, yay), and then touch up some paint.  I see the light at the end of the tunnel!  Before we get to that "big reveal," I wanted to address some of the little issues we encountered along the way, and what kind of slap-dash, band-aid solutions we applied (this is, after all, just a temporary makeover).

First up, the piece of veneered MDF that was beside the fridge in the original kitchen:


Even after my Dad and I tore out the upper cabinets, it was still photographed loitering.  Why?  The flooring was installed around it so to tear it out would mean a little square of subfloor at the base of the cabinets.


We decided to keep the kitchen flooring because it's shades of cream, and a neutral enough pattern for it to work.  It extends into the front entry, laundry room and half bathroom as well.  To solve the problem, Hubby simply cut down the offending panel with a saw, I primed and painted it turquoise, and we installed the counter top right over it!


You wouldn't even guess that there's an extra piece lurking there (well, it's not fair for you to guess because you already know).


In the photo above (pre-paneling), you might have spotted the fan which had been behind the angled cabinet:


Aesthetic contentions aside, it didn't work.  This isn't new territory for us: the range hood in the townhouse didn't work either.  We've been conditioned to cook without one - when we browned meat, indulged in bacon (or burnt the butter), we just opened a window in the adjacent dining room.  Now that we have a window in the kitchen, we'll be fine.  With our phase II remodel, of course we'll install a proper range hood and make sure it works (dream big!) but for now we blocked it off with foam for insulation because it was drafty, and hid it behind the paneling.  What fan?


Sneak peek: shelves!



The next little thing was the pantry.  I actually didn't mind the pantry (to the left of the fridge) in the original kitchen configuration.  It had neat little pull out shelves for dry goods.  But it had the 1990s cathedral style door I hate, so I ripped it out too.  When demoing, it's really hard to stop. 


The flooring was glued up to this part of the cabinetry as well, so when we removed it the subfloor was glaring at me.  If you follow on instagram, you might have caught a peek of the pantry Hubs built (and how we burned the ceiling finishing it).



We started with a super sophisticated blueprint (which included a low shelf to hide the subfloor):


 And ended up with this! (Ignore the wood piece screwed to the side, that was a plan that didn't pan out):



The pantry is almost 8 feet tall and is constructed of two sheets of birch veneered 3/4" plywood, that is good on both sides (the sheets come in 48" x 96" sizes).  It was relatively simple to build and we did it without a table saw (man, we really need one though, because it's getting ridiculous).  For anyone who is curious, here's the how-to:

Using our detailed blueprint and the cut list software that Hubby found for the kitchen paneling job, he marked and cut the pieces using a straight edge and a circular saw (or table saw for you fancy folks!).  The unit is 24" deep, so the sides are simply a single sheet of plywood that is ripped down its length and trimmed a little at one end in order to allow the unit to clear the ceiling. 


Here's the circular saw we use.  Hubby originally chose a blade with a higher number of teeth to get a cleaner cut on the wall paneling and left the blade on for this job for the same reason.  He finds it cuts a little slower, but does not tear the edges as much.  To use this in lieu of a table saw we just clamped a straight edge next to it as a guide.


The shelves rest on braces (which are just strips of plywood) that are glued and screwed into the sides.  Hubs marked the locations and pre-drilled the holes in the side panels.  These holes are large enough to allow the screws to pass through without grabbing the first layer and sucking the second layer of wood in tight.  With all the pieces cut out and the side brackets installed, Hubby brought everything into the house for assembly (it's a beast to move when it's assembled).



For assembly, we put it together face down, starting with the top and bottom.  These pieces were glued and screwed into place.  As soon as the screws were tightened and before the glue set, we checked to make sure the unit was square.  This was done by placing a tape measure across the unit to opposite corners (two measurements).  We compared the dimensions and shifted the cabinet to get it as close as possible.  The rear shelf braces (the skinny pieces below) were then glued and screwed into place.




For a clever little trick, we used extra paneling for the back so when you glance at it quickly, you think you're seeing the wall behind.  In my eyes, this little feature makes it look less like a plywood box, but we didn't sacrifice stability by skipping the back panel altogether.  The back panel is just nailed into place using 3/4" 18 gauge air nails.  A tip for nailing things together is to drive them at alternating angles.  Even if the panel does want to pull off, it means that it will not slide easily.


Once everything was together and the glue had set, we lifted the unit upright.  This was only possible because the ceiling in the dining room is a lot taller.  As you can see from the image below, we did not leave a lot of clearance (intentionally).  The shelves were then put in place to check for final fitment (two needed slight trimming).  Edges were then lightly sanded to remove any sharpness or roughness.


We worked on this puppy late at night . . .


I painted it, but first we applied some wood edge tape to hide the visible plywood edges.  There is a heat activated glue on one side, so we just grabbed an old iron and ironed it on.


The tape was then trimmed to fit using a sharp knife or a proper edge tape trimmer.  We don't have a table saw, so do you think we own fancy tools like edge tape trimmers?  Nope.



The unit and shelves were then primed and painted with semi-gloss paint, and the shelves installed.  The shelves are screwed from the outside, to pull the sides together, and through the top of the shelves into the braces, to pull them down.  We pushed the unit in place and put three screws through the back into a wall stud to hold in in place.

It's a little imperfect but that didn't stop us from high-fiving each other and congratulating ourselves for having built something so awesome and functional and HUGE.  The minute we slid it into place, the fridge no longer seemed as prominent - which was exactly my plan!  I've decided that every time something is a little imperfect - especially if I've painted it white - I'm just going to refer to it as "cottagey," which is perfectly acceptable for a lakehouse like ours.  So this pantry is cottagey, and we love it.  I can't wait to add large glass canisters and actually buy things like flour and sugar. 


We still need to add baseboard to the wall, and in front of the pantry, because without that it's a little too cottagey, but it's definitely taking shape.  I wander out the garage every now and then and caress my boxes or Pyrex and glassware.  So close!

UPDATE: a little bit of baseboard trim and caulk makes the pantry look more built-in and finished:


The paint for the paneled walls and pantry was provided by CIL.  The colour is White on White (in eggshell for the walls and semi-gloss for the cabinetry).  You'll see more of the painted paneling soon!
Read more »
SHARE:
© Dans le Lakehouse | All rights reserved.
See What Inspires Me on Pinterest